While looking through the aperture, the shooter should focus on the front sight, placing it "on target", beit game or paper. The shooter should look THROUGH the peep sight aperture, and not "at" it - rendering the peep sight virtually invisible while shooting. If I do go forth with the peep I'll definitely try the 5/64ths bit first since I've heard you and another fellow skirmisher mention a 5/64ths peep.Anyone unfamiliar with peep sights should learn/practice they way they use the sight.įor a clean sight picture, it's best to either remove the rear barrel open/iron sight or switch it out for a folder. Something that I can see my targets with and the flanking rows, but fine enough to be practical. On my Sharps I'm using 5/64", on my Enfield 2 band, 3/32".That's the exact sight picture I'm looking for. That sounds like it would be huge, but it really isn't. While I can't give you an exact size, I would say that whatever diameter allows you to just see the rows of pigeons on either side with the bird board, or just see the 2 targets on either side of the one you are aiming at with hanging targets would be the minimum I'd go with. From a bench on a paper target where there's only one target down range, I could shoot a VERY small peep- but it doesn't help you much if you bring your gun to bear and have to keep looking OVER the sight to acquire your targets. You have to balance target acquisition time as well. Personally I start very small always easier to enlarge. Obviously, I haven't done much for experimenting with peep size, I just used a very tiny drill bit that my Dad has always used for 100yd peeps on his Sharps carbines and Gallagers.ĭepends on a lot of things. When I make peeps, before I drill the sight blank or leaf, I always find the correct positioning of the peep with homemade sights made of either tin or feeler gauge. It's the cheapest and best of all easiest to change out with another peep sight without permanently altering your metallic sights until you know positively whether a peep sight is likely to help improve your shooting or is a hinderance thereof.Thanks for the info! I understand you're only suppose to see the front sight. You can glue them in place with superglue. If you wish to experiment with peep sights, make up some peeps out of paper board and try different size aperatures until you find the one that suits you best. You don't really need to much worry about the rear sight, whether its a vee or a peep - so long as you can focus on the front sight clearly - you shouldn't worry about maintaining clear focus on the rear sight or the target. I's sights are because these carbines really interest me because of their military issue tang sights and longer barrel. The reason I ask about the Maynard Model. I also thought of purchasing a tall square front sight to replace the tapered front sight and making a square notch in the rear sight which I believe will make a much simplier and sharper sight picture. My sights now are a V rear sight and the tapered front sight. I do well with my peep at 100yd but understand a peep at fifty can make you lose your frame or be on the wrong row of targets. Is there a reason you want to shoot a peep at 50yds? RichHaha ya I guess I do have an advantage! I can see my sights fine but peep sights just interest me. At your age I think you are disadvantaging yourself with a peep but your using it at 100yds but it seems well because depth of target is greater. 5/64" is what I would start off with a gun where open rear sight is originally down the barrel. Never measured My model 1 maynard and it would not matter to you because the sight is right flipped up in front of my eyeball where yours is down the barrel. In my 30's I went to a Model 2 Maynard with a peep. Well when I was your age I was shooting a Sharps with open sights for 15 years never needed a peep on carbine.
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